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Friday, February 27, 2009

Q15: "[...] how is that going being ruled by monkeys?"

Aliza asked, "Jesse mentioned in passing yesterday that monkeys have overtaken the government building in New Delhi. I was skeptical. a) Is this true? b) If so, how is that going being ruled by monkeys?"

[First off -- oof, sorry for the big intermission in posting. Hopefully, I will continue to post regularly. No big promises, though.]

Jesse may have been referring to this article in The New York Times last year. Since those incidents, however, I think Delhi has dealt -- by what means, I don't know -- with the problem. In any case, I saw fewer monkeys in Delhi than I saw in most other places. There was a huge group of monkeys that seemed to be filing non-stop out of an abandoned building in North Delhi, but otherwise a monkeyless Delhi.

I saw the most monkeys in the state of Karnataka in South India: at the botanical gardens in Bangalore, on the top of Nandi Hills (about 45 minutes from Bangalore), around the former capital of Mysore and in the ancient ruins of Hampi. This is not to say that there are more monkeys in the South than in the North -- I just visited more monkeyish places in the South.

The effect probably wears off after living around monkeys for awhile, but I was in awe of how (perhaps unsurprisingly) human they look and act. (Or is it the other way around?) The humanoid faces and the opposable thumbs really do the trick. Social situations, like when you see one monkey grooming lice from the hair of another, are eerie.

Usually we kept to ourselves -- the monkeys in the trees or on building exteriors, and me with two feet on the ground. But in some places, like Mysore or the Bangalore botanical gardens, with bolder monkeys, there was more intra-primate interaction. Sometimes the monkeys-cum-space-invaders try to pry a bag of chips out of human hands. More often, however, they just hold out an open palm.

I'll leave you with this photograph, of a Delhi monkey doing its best "Blue Steel" impression:

Sunday, January 18, 2009

Q14: "[...] ready to begin writing now? [...]"

My mom writes, "Dear Jeremy, I miss your blog and wondered if you are ready to begin writing now? What have been the highs and lows so far in India? Also do you photos of places you have been?"

Yes, my apologies for not writing since my arrival in India. This has partly been because until now there have been no new questions, but mostly because settling in (or not settling in) has been a very long process. I'm ready to write, though, so here we go...

To begin, this has been my itinerary so far:
- December 9-17: Bangalore, Karnataka
- December 18-20: Hampi, Karnataka
- December 21-22: Bangalore
- December 23-24: Mysore, Karnataka
- December 25-27: Bangalore
- December 28- January 1: Pondicherry (Union Territory)
- January 2-3: Chennai, Tamil Nadu
- January 4-19: Kolkata/Calcutta, West Bengal
- January 20-?: Delhi (Union Territory)

It would be futile to summarize the last month and a half, so I won't even try. Instead, I'll try to update more regularly over the next few weeks, either in response to questions or on general themes.

The highs and lows? The highs so far have been eating and walking in Kolkata, meeting some extremely nice people and slowly getting the hang of things. The lows so far have been illness (bacterial throat infection in early December, food poisoning in mid-December and a head cold last week), pollution in Bangalore and Kolkata (my mucus is nearly black and getting darker, I have seen blue sky once and for 15 minutes in the past two weeks) and people constantly trying to sell me things.

About photos, unfortunately my internet connection is too spotty to upload photos regularly. When I get home, though, I'll make sure to post the photos online and put the link on this blog.

### Got questions about India or my time here? Ask, ask ask... ###